Manufacturing boutique dog collars and Martingale collars since 2003, 2 Hounds Design has perfected the art of collar making using premium hardware and first quality fabrics with unique designs. All Martingale dog collars feature a super soft cuddle satin lining, perfect for your short hair racing dogs!

From hand loomed Laotian Silk, French Jacquard Ribbon, Asian Silk Brocades, and Scalamandre Silks, the premium fabrics and ribbon used for these Martingale collars creates a stunning selection for your prized pooch. CLICK HERE to view more hand made Martingale collars from 2 Hounds Design.

WHAT IS A MARTINGALE COLLAR & WHY USE ONE?

The Martingale collar is a special type of dog collar that gives your greyhound, whippet, or racing dog comfort while being completely secure on the leash. Made with two loops, Martingale collars are constructed with two loops, where the large loop is placed around your dog’s neck and loosely adjusted. The leash is then clipped onto the D ring of the Martingale collar. When your greyhound, whippet, or racing dog attempts to pull out ahead of the collar, the tension on the leash pulls the small loop on the Martingale dog collar, preventing escape.

When the Martingale collar is adjusted properly, your dog is never choked but the Martingale dog collar stays snug around the dog’s neck just behind the ears until the pressure is released. CLICK HERE to view more hand made Martingale dog collars from 2 Hounds Design.

We are called sighthounds, or gazehounds, because we hunt primarily by keeping our prey in view.  Like some of the big cats of Africa, we once chased small game over short distances but at very high speeds.  The two fastest dogs in the world, greyhounds and whippets, are both sighthounds.

Afghan Hound

Because we were bred for our speed and strength, we have become the primary racing dogs around the world.  Each of us has different characteristics, but we all want to live in good homes filled with love and attention. For information about dog adoption and owning any of my sighthound cousins, check out my article on adoption. Here is information on ten unique sighthounds, each well worth adding as your newest family member.

• AFGHAN HOUND – Known for their long, flowing hair, Afghan hounds tend to weigh about 50 to 60 pounds.  They make wonderful pets, but be prepared to perform regular grooming on that beautiful hair.

• BASENJI – Called the “barkless dog,” the Basenji is a native of Africa.  Weighing in at around 25 pounds, Basenjis canseem independent and aloof, but love to play when the opportunity arises.  Thanks to their short coats, grooming is minimal.
  

  Borzoi

• BORZOI – One of the larger sighthounds, Borzoi can reach 100 pounds or more.   The result of crossing the Arabiangreyhound with it thick-coasted Russian cousin, the Borzoi’s silky hair can be straight, wavy or even curly.

• GREYHOUND – The iconic sighthound and fastest dog breed, the greyhound is a sweet, personable companion as well as an amazing athlete.  Even though large male Greyhounds can weigh 80 pounds or more, they make wonderful house pets.  However, they require regular exercise to keep them healthy and happy.

• IBIZAN HOUND – With an almost deer-like appearance, these hounds came from Spain, where they once hunted small game.  Unequalled as high and broad jumpers, they are wonderful to watch at play.  If you are considering an Ibizan, be sure your yard has a tall fence.
  

  Rhodesian Ridgeback

• IRISH WOLFHOUND – On its hind legs, an Irish wolfhound will tower over even a tall owner.  Weighing between 100 and 150 pounds, wolfhounds do best where there is a sizeable yard.  They are known to be very gentle, but like any sighthound, will quickly take up the chase.

• ITALIAN GREYHOUNDS - In appearance, Italian greyhounds are a miniature of their racetrack cousins.   Typicallyweighing between 10 and 15 pounds, Italian greyhounds are playful, intelligent and relatively easy to train.

• RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK – Also called the lion hound, the Rhodesian ridgeback was bred by Boer farmers in South Africa to hunt lions.  Its name comes from a tuft of fur that typically runs up its back.  Ridgebacks are heavily muscled and make good guard dogs.
  

  Saluki

• SALUKI – With its long hair and feathered legs, the Saluki is a beautiful, graceful dog.  Sometimes called the Persian greyhound, it is also a strong runner and eager hunter.  Roughly the same size as we whippets, Salukis make good pets and are competitive racers.

• WHIPPETS – Able to attain speeds of up to 35 miles-per-hour, we whippets are the second fastest breed of dog.   Don’t let a fragile appearance fool you.  We have strong muscles and love regular exercise.  We also enjoy spending hours snoozing on the couch.  Usually good with children, whippets make excellent house pets.

When considering dogs for adoption, or more specifically greyhound adoption or whippet adoption, most people recognize whippets and greyhounds as being similar breeds.  Some even know that we are sighthounds. Actually, there are many sighthound breeds.  After you’ve read this article, check out my article on some of my sighthound cousins.

If you are researching dogs for adoption, greyhounds and whippets are the two fastest dog breeds in the world, but we also love to kick back and relax.  Because of this, some people call us “40 mile-per-hour couch potatoes,” a title we justly deserve.  To give you an idea of our size, greyhound boys run about 70 to 80 pounds and girls about 60 pounds.  We whippets are about half that size.  At 42 pounds, I’m considered a large male whippet.

So let’s consider three main reasons why you should consider greyhound adoption or whippet adoption:

• I want a dog to walk with – We love and need regular exercise, but don’t require a large yard to be happy. Frequent walks, and the occasional dash through the house, are all we really need.  Those of us whippets and greyhounds who still race, however, appreciate longer walks and the occasional run in an enclosed area.

• I want a loving companion – We whippets and our greyhound cousins are known to be sweet dogs.  We love to cuddle and spend time with our family.  As racers, however, we have almost no body fat and very little fur, which makes us very susceptible to extreme heat and cold.   We should never be left outdoors for prolonged periods.  Our thin fur has a big upside for your housekeeping since we shed minimally.

• I’m looking for a fun, competitive hobby – For over a thousand years, our canine ancestors chased game, a skill that has been honed today for dog racing.  If you’re looking for dogs for adoption, we come with a hobby for our masters! Organized by local clubs and national organizations, we compete today in dog racing by chasing a mechanical lure on straight, oval or zigzag courses.  Search the Internet for a local club or contact either the North American Whippet Racing Association or Large Gazehound Racing Association.

One word about our chasing.  Once outdoors, most of us will take off after small animals.  Because we don’t stop for traffic, you will need to keep us on lead or in a confined area whenever we are outdoors.

Greyhound Adoption – Greyhounds are Special!

Well, most of them think they are special. I must admit some do have special needs. If you’re considering greyhound adoption.  Many, if not most, greyhounds spent much of their early lives at the racetrack, often living in a crate.  Consequently, they didn’t have the same opportunities to learn about living in a human world. Greyhound adoption of a dog right off the track requires someone with the patience to build the human connection.

How Do I Adopt One?

Most greyhounds are what we call “rescue dogs.”  Some big-hearted person gave him or her a home once their track racing career was done.  If you’ve decided to make a greyhound part of your family, you might begin by looking up the National Greyhound Adoption Program on the Internet.  But don’t stop there; put “greyhound adoption” plus your zip code into your favorite Internet search engine and that should get you to a local nonprofit helping with greyhound adoption.

Adopting a whippet is also a great idea, though we are less likely to be turned out after our racing careers are done.  You can check out the national organization, Whippet Rescue, or look for local whippet clubs in your area for whippet adoption.

Purchasing a greyhound or whippet is another way to join the fun, but be very careful.  As with all breeds, puppy mills, breeders only interested in a fast buck, are not worth your time or money.  One great way to find a quality breeder is to attend a local dog show, visit a whippet or greyhound club in your area or come to a race meet.  Search the internet for the breed name and your state.

In your search for dogs for adoption, I hope you’ve decided to open your home to a whippet, a greyhound or any of our sighthound cousins.  We are wonderful additions to most any family and will give you many years of love, affection and fun.

Feeling the Need for Speed…

- Tristan the Whippet

By natural instinct, dogs are aggressive creatures. When in the wild, the instinct of an aggressive dog can be handy to hunt, defend themselves from predators, and defend their family and resources. Selective breeding over the centuries has eliminated dog aggression almost completely, but this trait is instinctual and physically capable of inflicting physical harm. However, this doesn’t mean that we as racing dog owners are completely helpless in training our dogs. There is actually many tricks and tools to help curb dog aggression efficiently and effectively.

Aside from aggression towards family members, dog aggression towards strangers can be a real issue. The source of dog aggression (towards family members vs. strangers) also requires different types of treatment. You can easily tell when your dog is nerved around strangers….he’s jumpy, more alert, fidgeting, pacing, and barking, fully focused on that strange person approaching.

Socializing Your Dog

Dog aggression occurs because he doesn’t like strange people, or better stated, he never had an opportunity yet to get used to the strangers. Your dog completely relies on you to expand his experiences in the outside world. Understandably, without consistent positive experiences, how can your dog be expected to relax in situations not familiar to him?

Giving your dog more “real world” experiences and all the strange people is known as socialization. Socializing your aggressive dog is critical, and requires you to expose him from a young age to a variety of new experiences, people, and animals.

How Does Socialization Prevent Dog Aggression?

When socializing your dog, he will learn that the experiences of new signs and sounds are not scary but fun. You must do more than just expose your adult dog to a big crowd of unfamiliar people and expect him to “settle down.” Your pooch must learn and be comfortable for himself. If possible, these lessons should begin as a puppy. Be sure to have your puppy or dog meet some of the following types of people in a fun and happy environment to get fully comfortable:

• Babies
• Toddlers
• Teenagers
• Elderly People
• Men and Women
• People in Uniforms
• People with Umbrellas
• People Wearing Motorcycle Helmets, etc.

Socializing Your Dog Without Fear of Strangers

Socializing your dog is more an effort in consistency rather than a specific training method. To curb dog aggression and maintain comfort with strangers, begin with puppy preschool. This is only a series of fun and easy group-training classes for puppies. Usually there are two or more trainers to help with basic obedience commands. Although the obedience training component is beneficial, the social skills your puppy gains is most valuable with many unfamiliar dogs at the training along with strange owners and trainers in an unfamiliar environment. This says to your dog subconsciously that strange dogs, strange people, and strange environments are safe and no need to create fear or dog aggression. Remember not to overwhelm your dog, but take it slow and increase the tolerance gradually.

CLICK HERE for more information on handling dog aggression and dominant behavior as well as tons of detailed information on other dog behavior issues.  Check out The Secrets to Dog Training Manual and put an end to the stress and annoyance of your dog’s aggression problems.

Dog anxiety, and more specifically dog separation anxiety, is a very common issue among all dog breeds. Generally defined, dog separation anxiety is a state of intense panic created by the separation or isolation from her owner(s).  In less technical terms, when you leave for work in the morning, your dog is put into a place of nervous anxiety, intensifying quickly.

Since dogs are social animals, they require much social interaction as no dog likes to be left alone for long periods of time and separation anxiety is worse in some dogs than others.

What Can Cause Dog Separation Anxiety?

• Genetic Predisposition – Certain breeds are just predisposed to such dog anxiety behavior (including Weimaraners, Springer Spaniels, German Shepherds, & Airedales) especially if you are absent much of the time.
• Adopted from Dog Shelters – Most dogs from shelters have had serious trauma in their life, abandoned by previous owners with little trust.
• Dogs Separated from Mothers & Siblings Too Early – Puppies from pet stores are great examples. They are typically taken from their family at 8 weeks and confined to a glass box for another few weeks, which is psychologically traumatic for the puppy.
• Neglect – This is the biggest factor for dog separation anxiety. If you are absent more than present, such anxiety is inevitable. Your pooch requires company, affection, and attention to be happy.

Symptoms of dog separation anxiety are pretty distinctive. Your dog will learn when you are leaving from keys jingling or getting dressed to go outside. She may follow you from room to room, whining, trembling, and crying. Many dogs become aggressive at this point. Incessant barking, scratching, and digging at windows and doors (in an attempt to escape and be with you), chewing, or urinating and defecating in the home is not uncommon. In extreme cases, your dog may scratch, chew, or lick their fur to the point of self-mutilation and other obsessive-compulsive behavior. Your return is the high point of the day, but your departure tomorrow creates an even heightened sense of trauma for your dog.

The good news is there are steps you can take to minimize your dog’s separation anxiety. Here is a list of do’s and don’ts:

Do:

• Exercise Her Until Exhausted – The longer you are away, the more exercise she needs (15 minutes minimum). Walk before you leave for the day.
• Distract Her from Boredom, Loneliness & Anxiety – Give her an attractive alternative to pining, chewing, pacing, and barking. Since all dogs love to chew, offer her a bone from the butcher. Even turning on some classical music or the TV on low helps give the feeling she has company.
• Room with a View – If possible, offer her a view out the window to see the world going by, which is next best to actually being out in the world.
• Acclimate Her to your Departure – Start nice and slow. Jingle your keys, put on your coat, open the door, then without leaving, sit on the couch and don’t go anywhere. Continue process until no reaction, then give a treat with praise. Gradually work up until no signs of stress.

Do Not:

• Act Over-Sympathetic – When she’s crying, don’t act too sympathetic. This sounds cold-hearted, but is actually validating her concern and is not good in your dog training. Ensure she can’t tell you feel sorry for her and don’t say “it’s OK girl…”

For more information on how to deal constructively with your dog’s separation anxiety, learn obedience commands, tricks, and other proven secrets to dog training, CLICK HERE.

Two extremely different opinions reign when it comes to stop dog digging. First, many believe that “dogs will be dogs” and dogs digging is natural even if it’s at the expense of the fresh sod you just installed or the new rose bushes you just planted. On the other end of the spectrum, “my flowerbed is my flowerbed” and it is not to be touched let alone destroyed by my dog.

It’s healthy to maintain a middle ground with your personal philosophies regarding the habits of dog digging by letting him indulge in the habit by digging a little, but not allowing him to run rampant in your yard. Believe it or not, dogs and flowers can coexist in harmony.

If you haven’t adopted a dog yet and one of your main concerns is of your garden, consider the breed of dog you would consider adopting. The type of dog breed tends to play a large role in the likelihood of digging habits. Terriers and Nordic breeds (such as huskies, malamutes, and certain members of the spitz family) seem to enjoy digging more than other types of breeds. However, just like the different personality traits of humans, dogs have individual personalities too and there isn’t a way to guarantee certain behavior traits solely based on dog breed.

Why Do Dogs Dig?

Dog digging occurs for some of the following reasons:

• Lack of Exercise – Digging helps under-exercised dogs burn extra energy
• Boredom – Bored dogs feel they need a “job” to do to help time pass giving a sense of purpose
• Need for More – By nature, some dogs are escape artists no matter how much attention and exercise they get. It is exciting to know what lies beyond the fence.
• Separation Anxiety – When a dog is desperate for more attention, digging under the walls reflects the most direct path to you.

Separation anxiety is a very unpleasant psychological issue common among many dogs. Due to the complex nature of this topic, it won’t be covered in this article; CLICK HERE for more information and resources for preventing and coping with separation anxiety.

Preventing the Habit

Ironically enough, many of the reasons your dog digs creates their own solutions. If your dog isn’t receiving enough exercise, increase the amount of activity he gets (generally 45 minutes per day). Take him for more walks. Is he is bored, give some toys and chew toys to keep him occupied in your absence. Try to wear him out before you leave so he will sleep most of the day. The dog that is an escape artist may need to be crated or left in the home while you are at work.

Those dogs who enjoy digging as a past time, the following provides general tips to stop dog digging:

• Restrict Access – Restricting access is the most effective measure you can take. If your dog isn’t in the yard, he can’tdig…simple as that.
• Create a Natural Deterrent – Nearly all dogs will shy from the idea of digging where there is dog poop. Even the dogs who enjoy eating poop (condition known as coprophagia) in general will not dig anywhere near either, offending their basic dislike of soiling their paws and coat.
• Change Plants – If you are offended by the dog digging in your garden, plant heartier plants with deep roots and natural thorn defenses like roses.
• Install Artificial Grass – Installing artificial grass or synthetic turf in your back yard is becoming the norm in America and isn’t the Astroturf it once was. Your dog won’t be able to dig or disrupt it if a quality product is installed correctly.

Forcing a goal to stop dog digging completely is unrealistic and you will be setting yourself up for failure since your dog is a digger by nature and breed. Take the steps outlined in this article to help reduce the destructive behavior and you will be able to live more harmoniously with your pooch (and keep your flowers). For more information on recognizing and dealing with problematic behaviors like chewing, digging, barking, and aggression, see the Secrets to Dog Training Handbook. This is a detailed manual for the responsible dog owner and is packed with all the information you need to raise a happy and healthy dog, covering topics such as dog psychology, obedience, and correcting problem behaviors. CLICK HERE for more information.

House training your dog or puppy is one of the most dreaded and misunderstood types of dog training. This article will be outlining the two most common dog house training and puppy house training issues including:

• Submissive or Excited Urination
• Scent Marking

House Training – Common Submissive Urination

A submissive urinator is a dog which seemingly uncontrollably urinates on the floor and themselves in circumstances of extreme stress or excitement (i.e. after being scolded or when you arrive home for the day). Traditionally it is the puppies who demonstrate this trait, but can also be common of adult dogs (typically either sensitive or timid dogs or ones from a shelter with history of abuse). Situations when an excited or stressed dog is likely to urinate includes:

• Arrival time after long absence
• Play time
• When guests arrive
• Stressful home circumstances
• During a scolding or correction
• Sudden loud noises

The good news is it isn’t difficult to correct this habit, and more importantly, there is NO REASON to take your dog to the Vet, as there is no medical reason for this issue (like a bladder infection). Dog house training steps you can take to help control submissive urination include:

• Limit water intake when you know there is a situation coming that would normally result in urination.
• Calmly greet your dog when you come home to not create any unnecessary added stimulation. Maybe a neutral greeting and a quick pat will do the trick!
• It’s critical that you DO NOT harshly correct this behavior, as your dog isn’t doing it purposefully and it is a challenging behavior to correct. A firm “No!” with some praise afterwards should suffice.
• If your dog urinates out of fear, try to maintain a firm and authoritative calm tone. Remember you’re dealing with a sensitive dog, where anger will worsen the issue.

House Training – Scent Marking

Scent marking is where your dog marks his territory with urine. Technically this issue is based on dominance and territory, rather than dog house training or puppy house training since a dog can be house trained yet still mark in the home.  Your dog is likely scent marking instead of merely relieving himself if:

• The amount of urine is relatively small
• The urine tends to be pointed at vertical surfaces, such as walls & doors
• He is an un-neutered male at least 5-6 months old (un-neutered males typically scent mark out of instinct – un-spayed females also mark but it’s less common)
• It makes no difference how often your dog is taken outside to urinate
• Frequently targets new items at the home (such as new furniture, guests, etc.)
• Conflict between two or more dogs

The most important thing you can do first is spay or neuter your dog as soon as possible! If done early enough, this can halt marking altogether (6 months of age or earlier). If your dog has been marking for some time, this procedure won’t necessarily eliminate the habit and your house training attempts.

Clean soiled areas completely using a non-ammonia based cleaner (ammonia and vinegar smell like urine). Many times Oxy-Clean mixed with warm water is effective and there are many commercially available products to choose from. Because dogs tend to remark the same places, you will need to redefine the area to prevent repeat occurrences. You can achieve this in a number of ways:

• Place his food next to or on top of the spot
• Play with your dog in that area
• Groom him in that area
• Place his bed over or next to the area

If there is any hierarchy rivalry between dogs in the home, it’s your job to help reinforce the position of the dominant dog. You can determine this by seeing which dog eats first, gets the toys first, or stares down other dogs. Feed this dog first or give a little more attention to this dog, which will make it clear to all the dogs in the house which dog is dominant. When this hierarchy i s clearly established, territorial and dominant behavior like scent marking will disappear overnight.

For additional information in successful dog house training and puppy house training (as well as a lot more detailed information on proven house training and related issues), check out the highly recommended Ultimate House Training Guide. For more information, CLICK HERE to read testimonials and get more information.

Many dog owners wished their barking dog would always be silent, unless of course there is a prowler outside your home. We think “a good dog is a quiet dog,” but dog barking is their voice in attempts to communicate. Dog barking is not necessarily a bad habit if he’s trying to engage me in some fashion.

Dogs bark for many reasons depending on the breed:

• Some dogs were bred to bark when a threat is imminent (particularly Rottweilers, Dobermans & German Shepherds)
  
• Some dogs were bred to assist in sport (Beagles, Bloodhounds, some Terriers)
• Some dogs just like to hear themselves bark (many of the toy canine breeds)

There are times a dog will bark regardless, including loneliness, hunger, thirst, and boredom. She sees an animal, she wants a toy, she needs to go potty….it’s not realistic to limit her barking for these natural reasons. There are other times when dog barking is unwarranted and annoying such as a means of manipulation. We’ve all been victims of canine manipulation, forcing us off the couch to cease the incessant barking and to play fetch or give him a treat. It is that respect and love we show our dogs that is essential to our relationship with them (feeding them tasty food, playing with them and loving them, taking them to dog racing events).

It is hard for many kind-hearted owners to come to terms with the fact that dog ownership is not about equality; it is about you being in charge and that you need to be respected by your dog.  Dogs aren’t children, and they are best behaved when they know you are in charge as almost a “pack leader.” This is why when manipulation sets in; you need to put your foot down. We’re not talking about actually ignoring her and continuing whatever you were doing, but when there’s dog barking without good reason, it needs to be conveyed through your body language she is not worthy of your attention when she behaves in such a manner. When she starts to “bark you” into doing something, complete the following steps:

• Turn your back on her right away
• Get up, avert your eyes and face, turning so your back is towards her
• Don’t look at her or talk to her, not even a scolding “no”
• She will likely be confused and bark harder, particularly if you have given into her bully-barking in the past. The more consistency you demonstrate in your dog training, the better behaved she will be.

If you want to convey the message for her to stop barking altogether, there is a perfectly humane, impact-free, and pain-free method to use to gain your peace and quiet. Just follow the following steps:

• Let endure the dog barking for a moment to get it out of her system (it’s more effective to give her a brief chance to express herself before asking her to be quiet).
• If she doesn’t calm down on her own, reach out and clasp her muzzle gently but firmly.
• She will try to shake you off, so place your other hand on her collar to gain greater control.

This method is effective as it silences your dog while at the same time reinforces your authority, showing her through physical actions you are a loving but firm leader who won’t take any nonsense. Hold on to the muzzle until she calms down…only after she’s calmed down has she accepted your authority. After being still for 1-2 seconds, give her praise and love for listening and obeying.

Most dogs function with 1.5 hours of exercise per day, which is a large time commitment from you. This varies from dog to dog, but if the dog barking seems to be coupled with boredom, inactivity, or destructive behavior, perhaps the simple solution of exercising her more will make a big difference!

By their nature, dogs are social animals and need lots of attention, interaction, and communication, otherwise they become anxious and on edge. If you’re interested in learning more about mastering unwanted dog behavior, then consider taking a look at the Secrets to Dog Training Manual. It is a complete guide for the responsible dog owner, dealing with recognizing, preventing, and dealing with nearly every dog behavior issue including dog barking. CLICK HERE for more information.

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