Manufacturing boutique dog collars and Martingale collars since 2003, 2 Hounds Design has perfected the art of collar making using premium hardware and first quality fabrics with unique designs. All Martingale dog collars feature a super soft cuddle satin lining, perfect for your short hair racing dogs!

From hand loomed Laotian Silk, French Jacquard Ribbon, Asian Silk Brocades, and Scalamandre Silks, the premium fabrics and ribbon used for these Martingale collars creates a stunning selection for your prized pooch. CLICK HERE to view more hand made Martingale collars from 2 Hounds Design.

WHAT IS A MARTINGALE COLLAR & WHY USE ONE?

The Martingale collar is a special type of dog collar that gives your greyhound, whippet, or racing dog comfort while being completely secure on the leash. Made with two loops, Martingale collars are constructed with two loops, where the large loop is placed around your dog’s neck and loosely adjusted. The leash is then clipped onto the D ring of the Martingale collar. When your greyhound, whippet, or racing dog attempts to pull out ahead of the collar, the tension on the leash pulls the small loop on the Martingale dog collar, preventing escape.

When the Martingale collar is adjusted properly, your dog is never choked but the Martingale dog collar stays snug around the dog’s neck just behind the ears until the pressure is released. CLICK HERE to view more hand made Martingale dog collars from 2 Hounds Design.

By natural instinct, dogs are aggressive creatures. When in the wild, the instinct of an aggressive dog can be handy to hunt, defend themselves from predators, and defend their family and resources. Selective breeding over the centuries has eliminated dog aggression almost completely, but this trait is instinctual and physically capable of inflicting physical harm. However, this doesn’t mean that we as racing dog owners are completely helpless in training our dogs. There is actually many tricks and tools to help curb dog aggression efficiently and effectively.

Aside from aggression towards family members, dog aggression towards strangers can be a real issue. The source of dog aggression (towards family members vs. strangers) also requires different types of treatment. You can easily tell when your dog is nerved around strangers….he’s jumpy, more alert, fidgeting, pacing, and barking, fully focused on that strange person approaching.

Socializing Your Dog

Dog aggression occurs because he doesn’t like strange people, or better stated, he never had an opportunity yet to get used to the strangers. Your dog completely relies on you to expand his experiences in the outside world. Understandably, without consistent positive experiences, how can your dog be expected to relax in situations not familiar to him?

Giving your dog more “real world” experiences and all the strange people is known as socialization. Socializing your aggressive dog is critical, and requires you to expose him from a young age to a variety of new experiences, people, and animals.

How Does Socialization Prevent Dog Aggression?

When socializing your dog, he will learn that the experiences of new signs and sounds are not scary but fun. You must do more than just expose your adult dog to a big crowd of unfamiliar people and expect him to “settle down.” Your pooch must learn and be comfortable for himself. If possible, these lessons should begin as a puppy. Be sure to have your puppy or dog meet some of the following types of people in a fun and happy environment to get fully comfortable:

• Babies
• Toddlers
• Teenagers
• Elderly People
• Men and Women
• People in Uniforms
• People with Umbrellas
• People Wearing Motorcycle Helmets, etc.

Socializing Your Dog Without Fear of Strangers

Socializing your dog is more an effort in consistency rather than a specific training method. To curb dog aggression and maintain comfort with strangers, begin with puppy preschool. This is only a series of fun and easy group-training classes for puppies. Usually there are two or more trainers to help with basic obedience commands. Although the obedience training component is beneficial, the social skills your puppy gains is most valuable with many unfamiliar dogs at the training along with strange owners and trainers in an unfamiliar environment. This says to your dog subconsciously that strange dogs, strange people, and strange environments are safe and no need to create fear or dog aggression. Remember not to overwhelm your dog, but take it slow and increase the tolerance gradually.

CLICK HERE for more information on handling dog aggression and dominant behavior as well as tons of detailed information on other dog behavior issues.  Check out The Secrets to Dog Training Manual and put an end to the stress and annoyance of your dog’s aggression problems.

Dog anxiety, and more specifically dog separation anxiety, is a very common issue among all dog breeds. Generally defined, dog separation anxiety is a state of intense panic created by the separation or isolation from her owner(s).  In less technical terms, when you leave for work in the morning, your dog is put into a place of nervous anxiety, intensifying quickly.

Since dogs are social animals, they require much social interaction as no dog likes to be left alone for long periods of time and separation anxiety is worse in some dogs than others.

What Can Cause Dog Separation Anxiety?

• Genetic Predisposition – Certain breeds are just predisposed to such dog anxiety behavior (including Weimaraners, Springer Spaniels, German Shepherds, & Airedales) especially if you are absent much of the time.
• Adopted from Dog Shelters – Most dogs from shelters have had serious trauma in their life, abandoned by previous owners with little trust.
• Dogs Separated from Mothers & Siblings Too Early – Puppies from pet stores are great examples. They are typically taken from their family at 8 weeks and confined to a glass box for another few weeks, which is psychologically traumatic for the puppy.
• Neglect – This is the biggest factor for dog separation anxiety. If you are absent more than present, such anxiety is inevitable. Your pooch requires company, affection, and attention to be happy.

Symptoms of dog separation anxiety are pretty distinctive. Your dog will learn when you are leaving from keys jingling or getting dressed to go outside. She may follow you from room to room, whining, trembling, and crying. Many dogs become aggressive at this point. Incessant barking, scratching, and digging at windows and doors (in an attempt to escape and be with you), chewing, or urinating and defecating in the home is not uncommon. In extreme cases, your dog may scratch, chew, or lick their fur to the point of self-mutilation and other obsessive-compulsive behavior. Your return is the high point of the day, but your departure tomorrow creates an even heightened sense of trauma for your dog.

The good news is there are steps you can take to minimize your dog’s separation anxiety. Here is a list of do’s and don’ts:

Do:

• Exercise Her Until Exhausted – The longer you are away, the more exercise she needs (15 minutes minimum). Walk before you leave for the day.
• Distract Her from Boredom, Loneliness & Anxiety – Give her an attractive alternative to pining, chewing, pacing, and barking. Since all dogs love to chew, offer her a bone from the butcher. Even turning on some classical music or the TV on low helps give the feeling she has company.
• Room with a View – If possible, offer her a view out the window to see the world going by, which is next best to actually being out in the world.
• Acclimate Her to your Departure – Start nice and slow. Jingle your keys, put on your coat, open the door, then without leaving, sit on the couch and don’t go anywhere. Continue process until no reaction, then give a treat with praise. Gradually work up until no signs of stress.

Do Not:

• Act Over-Sympathetic – When she’s crying, don’t act too sympathetic. This sounds cold-hearted, but is actually validating her concern and is not good in your dog training. Ensure she can’t tell you feel sorry for her and don’t say “it’s OK girl…”

For more information on how to deal constructively with your dog’s separation anxiety, learn obedience commands, tricks, and other proven secrets to dog training, CLICK HERE.

Two extremely different opinions reign when it comes to stop dog digging. First, many believe that “dogs will be dogs” and dogs digging is natural even if it’s at the expense of the fresh sod you just installed or the new rose bushes you just planted. On the other end of the spectrum, “my flowerbed is my flowerbed” and it is not to be touched let alone destroyed by my dog.

It’s healthy to maintain a middle ground with your personal philosophies regarding the habits of dog digging by letting him indulge in the habit by digging a little, but not allowing him to run rampant in your yard. Believe it or not, dogs and flowers can coexist in harmony.

If you haven’t adopted a dog yet and one of your main concerns is of your garden, consider the breed of dog you would consider adopting. The type of dog breed tends to play a large role in the likelihood of digging habits. Terriers and Nordic breeds (such as huskies, malamutes, and certain members of the spitz family) seem to enjoy digging more than other types of breeds. However, just like the different personality traits of humans, dogs have individual personalities too and there isn’t a way to guarantee certain behavior traits solely based on dog breed.

Why Do Dogs Dig?

Dog digging occurs for some of the following reasons:

• Lack of Exercise – Digging helps under-exercised dogs burn extra energy
• Boredom – Bored dogs feel they need a “job” to do to help time pass giving a sense of purpose
• Need for More – By nature, some dogs are escape artists no matter how much attention and exercise they get. It is exciting to know what lies beyond the fence.
• Separation Anxiety – When a dog is desperate for more attention, digging under the walls reflects the most direct path to you.

Separation anxiety is a very unpleasant psychological issue common among many dogs. Due to the complex nature of this topic, it won’t be covered in this article; CLICK HERE for more information and resources for preventing and coping with separation anxiety.

Preventing the Habit

Ironically enough, many of the reasons your dog digs creates their own solutions. If your dog isn’t receiving enough exercise, increase the amount of activity he gets (generally 45 minutes per day). Take him for more walks. Is he is bored, give some toys and chew toys to keep him occupied in your absence. Try to wear him out before you leave so he will sleep most of the day. The dog that is an escape artist may need to be crated or left in the home while you are at work.

Those dogs who enjoy digging as a past time, the following provides general tips to stop dog digging:

• Restrict Access – Restricting access is the most effective measure you can take. If your dog isn’t in the yard, he can’tdig…simple as that.
• Create a Natural Deterrent – Nearly all dogs will shy from the idea of digging where there is dog poop. Even the dogs who enjoy eating poop (condition known as coprophagia) in general will not dig anywhere near either, offending their basic dislike of soiling their paws and coat.
• Change Plants – If you are offended by the dog digging in your garden, plant heartier plants with deep roots and natural thorn defenses like roses.
• Install Artificial Grass – Installing artificial grass or synthetic turf in your back yard is becoming the norm in America and isn’t the Astroturf it once was. Your dog won’t be able to dig or disrupt it if a quality product is installed correctly.

Forcing a goal to stop dog digging completely is unrealistic and you will be setting yourself up for failure since your dog is a digger by nature and breed. Take the steps outlined in this article to help reduce the destructive behavior and you will be able to live more harmoniously with your pooch (and keep your flowers). For more information on recognizing and dealing with problematic behaviors like chewing, digging, barking, and aggression, see the Secrets to Dog Training Handbook. This is a detailed manual for the responsible dog owner and is packed with all the information you need to raise a happy and healthy dog, covering topics such as dog psychology, obedience, and correcting problem behaviors. CLICK HERE for more information.

House training your dog or puppy is one of the most dreaded and misunderstood types of dog training. This article will be outlining the two most common dog house training and puppy house training issues including:

• Submissive or Excited Urination
• Scent Marking

House Training – Common Submissive Urination

A submissive urinator is a dog which seemingly uncontrollably urinates on the floor and themselves in circumstances of extreme stress or excitement (i.e. after being scolded or when you arrive home for the day). Traditionally it is the puppies who demonstrate this trait, but can also be common of adult dogs (typically either sensitive or timid dogs or ones from a shelter with history of abuse). Situations when an excited or stressed dog is likely to urinate includes:

• Arrival time after long absence
• Play time
• When guests arrive
• Stressful home circumstances
• During a scolding or correction
• Sudden loud noises

The good news is it isn’t difficult to correct this habit, and more importantly, there is NO REASON to take your dog to the Vet, as there is no medical reason for this issue (like a bladder infection). Dog house training steps you can take to help control submissive urination include:

• Limit water intake when you know there is a situation coming that would normally result in urination.
• Calmly greet your dog when you come home to not create any unnecessary added stimulation. Maybe a neutral greeting and a quick pat will do the trick!
• It’s critical that you DO NOT harshly correct this behavior, as your dog isn’t doing it purposefully and it is a challenging behavior to correct. A firm “No!” with some praise afterwards should suffice.
• If your dog urinates out of fear, try to maintain a firm and authoritative calm tone. Remember you’re dealing with a sensitive dog, where anger will worsen the issue.

House Training – Scent Marking

Scent marking is where your dog marks his territory with urine. Technically this issue is based on dominance and territory, rather than dog house training or puppy house training since a dog can be house trained yet still mark in the home.  Your dog is likely scent marking instead of merely relieving himself if:

• The amount of urine is relatively small
• The urine tends to be pointed at vertical surfaces, such as walls & doors
• He is an un-neutered male at least 5-6 months old (un-neutered males typically scent mark out of instinct – un-spayed females also mark but it’s less common)
• It makes no difference how often your dog is taken outside to urinate
• Frequently targets new items at the home (such as new furniture, guests, etc.)
• Conflict between two or more dogs

The most important thing you can do first is spay or neuter your dog as soon as possible! If done early enough, this can halt marking altogether (6 months of age or earlier). If your dog has been marking for some time, this procedure won’t necessarily eliminate the habit and your house training attempts.

Clean soiled areas completely using a non-ammonia based cleaner (ammonia and vinegar smell like urine). Many times Oxy-Clean mixed with warm water is effective and there are many commercially available products to choose from. Because dogs tend to remark the same places, you will need to redefine the area to prevent repeat occurrences. You can achieve this in a number of ways:

• Place his food next to or on top of the spot
• Play with your dog in that area
• Groom him in that area
• Place his bed over or next to the area

If there is any hierarchy rivalry between dogs in the home, it’s your job to help reinforce the position of the dominant dog. You can determine this by seeing which dog eats first, gets the toys first, or stares down other dogs. Feed this dog first or give a little more attention to this dog, which will make it clear to all the dogs in the house which dog is dominant. When this hierarchy i s clearly established, territorial and dominant behavior like scent marking will disappear overnight.

For additional information in successful dog house training and puppy house training (as well as a lot more detailed information on proven house training and related issues), check out the highly recommended Ultimate House Training Guide. For more information, CLICK HERE to read testimonials and get more information.

Many dog owners wished their barking dog would always be silent, unless of course there is a prowler outside your home. We think “a good dog is a quiet dog,” but dog barking is their voice in attempts to communicate. Dog barking is not necessarily a bad habit if he’s trying to engage me in some fashion.

Dogs bark for many reasons depending on the breed:

• Some dogs were bred to bark when a threat is imminent (particularly Rottweilers, Dobermans & German Shepherds)
  
• Some dogs were bred to assist in sport (Beagles, Bloodhounds, some Terriers)
• Some dogs just like to hear themselves bark (many of the toy canine breeds)

There are times a dog will bark regardless, including loneliness, hunger, thirst, and boredom. She sees an animal, she wants a toy, she needs to go potty….it’s not realistic to limit her barking for these natural reasons. There are other times when dog barking is unwarranted and annoying such as a means of manipulation. We’ve all been victims of canine manipulation, forcing us off the couch to cease the incessant barking and to play fetch or give him a treat. It is that respect and love we show our dogs that is essential to our relationship with them (feeding them tasty food, playing with them and loving them, taking them to dog racing events).

It is hard for many kind-hearted owners to come to terms with the fact that dog ownership is not about equality; it is about you being in charge and that you need to be respected by your dog.  Dogs aren’t children, and they are best behaved when they know you are in charge as almost a “pack leader.” This is why when manipulation sets in; you need to put your foot down. We’re not talking about actually ignoring her and continuing whatever you were doing, but when there’s dog barking without good reason, it needs to be conveyed through your body language she is not worthy of your attention when she behaves in such a manner. When she starts to “bark you” into doing something, complete the following steps:

• Turn your back on her right away
• Get up, avert your eyes and face, turning so your back is towards her
• Don’t look at her or talk to her, not even a scolding “no”
• She will likely be confused and bark harder, particularly if you have given into her bully-barking in the past. The more consistency you demonstrate in your dog training, the better behaved she will be.

If you want to convey the message for her to stop barking altogether, there is a perfectly humane, impact-free, and pain-free method to use to gain your peace and quiet. Just follow the following steps:

• Let endure the dog barking for a moment to get it out of her system (it’s more effective to give her a brief chance to express herself before asking her to be quiet).
• If she doesn’t calm down on her own, reach out and clasp her muzzle gently but firmly.
• She will try to shake you off, so place your other hand on her collar to gain greater control.

This method is effective as it silences your dog while at the same time reinforces your authority, showing her through physical actions you are a loving but firm leader who won’t take any nonsense. Hold on to the muzzle until she calms down…only after she’s calmed down has she accepted your authority. After being still for 1-2 seconds, give her praise and love for listening and obeying.

Most dogs function with 1.5 hours of exercise per day, which is a large time commitment from you. This varies from dog to dog, but if the dog barking seems to be coupled with boredom, inactivity, or destructive behavior, perhaps the simple solution of exercising her more will make a big difference!

By their nature, dogs are social animals and need lots of attention, interaction, and communication, otherwise they become anxious and on edge. If you’re interested in learning more about mastering unwanted dog behavior, then consider taking a look at the Secrets to Dog Training Manual. It is a complete guide for the responsible dog owner, dealing with recognizing, preventing, and dealing with nearly every dog behavior issue including dog barking. CLICK HERE for more information.

You may have the easiest dog to care for in the world, yet he will still need attention to be paid to his appearance from dog grooming. That being said, it’s worth learning some of the best and most effective dog grooming techniques to stress-free and easy grooming from the experts for your dog’s health.

Why Should I Groom My Dog?

Up until recently not much attention was paid to dog grooming, but rather to let them live in the back yard to roll in smelly yard trimmings, eat whatever they please, and sometimes spend time with the kids. Today proper dog grooming has become very important in dog health care, not only for aesthetic appearance, but also for dog health reasons. Regular and proper dog grooming minimizes skin care issues (since dog grooming distributes the natural skin oils throughout the coat), and assists you in monitoring your dog’s overall health condition regularly (you can’t help but notice any lumps or bumps if you groom on a regular basis).

Such preventative and proactive actions have saved many canine lives since our dogs can’t tell us where it hurts. Taking the time to check can save a lot of grief in the long run. The trick is to get your dog to tolerate (might I even say enjoy) the dog grooming process!

1.) Properly Prepare your Dog for Grooming:

Since most dogs have a very strong dislike in getting bathed, and in many instances, become panic-stricken when the tub comes out, preparation will be one of the most important steps to accustom your dog to the grooming process. It is easiest to get a dog used to bathing when they are puppies, but even if you have an adolescent dog, you’ll want to start to touch them all over (especially the nose, ears, tummy, neck, head, paws, etc) to really get them comfortable with the actions. It shouldn’t take too long for your dog to begin to trust you and your actions, and actually enjoy your touch. Be sure to add lots of praise, as the more your dog enjoys it, the less stress and the more often he’ll let you groom him (increasing the dog health benefits).

2.) Bath First:

Bathing your dog always comes before dry grooming, as it makes trimming and brushing easier and more effective (there’s no point in brushing a dirty and tangled coat). Some basic tools will be needed (tub, non-slip mat, plastic jug, warm water, small sponge, and some canine shampoo). Don’t use shampoo for humans, as the pH is wrong and will dry your dog’s skin.

• Stand your dog in tub on the mat (if your dog is large or wild, you may wash outside to save the mess).
• Pour warm water over him until he’s wet (this breaks down grease in his fur, ensuring thorough shampooing).
• Combined a little shampoo with more warm water in a jug and thoroughly rub into his fur. Start with his back and move to the head and face.
• Careful not to get water in ears to prevent ear infection (small twist of cotton wool in each ear helps).
• Before washing him off, remember to clean under the tail by dipping the shampoo into the mixture.

3. Rinse…..and Repeat:

Using the jug and clean, warm, shampoo-free water, carefully tip it over his head, using your fingers to help disburse the lather from his coat. Rinse completely at least two times to ensure no residual is left to irritate his skin.

4.) Its Drying Time:

Its now time to dry. If he has short fur, an old towel will do just fine while dogs with longer fur require a gentle toweling, then a hair dryer to get rid of remaining dampness (be sure you set it on low heat and far away from your dog’s fur).

5.) Just Stay Calm:

Just remember that most dogs have an internal dislike of getting bathed, causing anxiety and panic. Since your dog takes many emotional cues from you, be sure to keep your voice and body actions calm, slow, and deliberate. Be sure to praise lavishly and a few treats always helps too! The more he enjoys the dog grooming process, the easier it’ll be for you!

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Dog grooming is just one small aspect of his or her overall dog health and happiness. For a complete encyclopedic survival guide to all aspects of dog health, from preventative care to choosing a vet, to even canine first aid (even the canine Heimlich maneuver!). A survival guide for knowledgeable, effective, and life-saving dog care, this manual keeps your dog’s health and well being firmly within your control – which is exactly where you want it to be.

When considering pet travel, many of us can’t bear the thought of leaving our pooch home while we are off vacationing or traveling around the globe, but if you do feel the urge to share your trip with Rex, be sure to give careful consideration to the following when it comes to dog travel in airplanes:

1.) Do Your Homework Ahead of Time – Contact your airline and determine if there are any restrictions in pet travel or more specifically dog travel (which tend to vary by airline), check weight limits, carrier requirements, or health / vaccination requirements. Taking the time in advance to get answers to your pet travel questions will save you a lot of stress when you’re at the airport ready to fly with your dog when an issue arises.

2.) Your Dog is Not Cargo or Luggage - Flying with your dog checked under the plane is extremely stressful and should only be done in rare circumstances or in emergencies. Do ensure that you have proper carrier on wheels which accommodates your dog’s size and weight comfortably.

3.) Just Say No - For dog travel, don’t use doggie drugs or sedatives. Use of such drugs for pet travel or flights is highly discouraged by the American Veterinarian Medical Association (AVMA). They state that such practices can lead to major health issues and even death in certain cases.

Unless you’re traveling specifically to a race, competition, or canine festival, consider leaving your dog at home in the loving hands of a pet sitter. Care.com gives people safe and easy access to hundreds of thousands of providers nationwide, enabling families to find and select the best pet care possible based on detailed profiles, background checks, and references. Your peace of mind will make your trip that much more enjoyable!

Retirement shouldn’t be about ending, it’s actually new beginnings.  When I retired over a year ago I wasn’t exactly sure what “new beginnings” lay ahead.  I could never have guessed what was to come.

A pet seemed like a good idea for a new beginning, specifically a dog…maybe a whippet.  What was not in the plan was for this couch potato to turn my life upside down.  But I’m getting ahead of myself.

We decided to get a whippet, ideally a whippet in need of some sort of rescue.  While visiting family near San Bernardino, California, about 500 miles from home, a trip to “just look” not surprisingly ended with the adoption of the sweetest, most loving 42 pound boy you have ever met.  Tristan is his name.

While we were told he “really loves to race,” this was not evident since he slept most of the eight-hour drive home and pretty much took over the couch, one overstuffed chair and the entire middle half or our bed.  All indications were toward sloth, not speed burner.  Boy were we wrong about this whippet.

Sometimes called “35 mile-per-hour couch potatoes,” whippets know only two speeds: full out and dead stop.  Having seen the couch potato part, we discovered Tristan’s love of speed when we attended a race practice.  Upon seeing the lure, this quiet, docile dog became a maniac, seeming ready to rip my arm from the shoulder.  The first time we saw him dart from the boxes and chase that lure for real, we were hooked.  This is a very fun sport, for dog and for owner.  And yes, whippets are the second fastest dog being able to achieve 35 miles per hour within a few steps.

Since that first heart-pounding experience we have joined the local race club, traveled to Seattle for the National race meet and learned how much a vet charges for a whole list of ailments.  Keeping this race champion in shape has been a plus for me as I am now getting a 3 mile daily walk most sunny days.

We are very proud of our little whippet.  At the North America Whippet Racing Association (NAWRA) national meet he place 17^th out of over 75 entries.  He tied for 12^th place in the 2009 NAWRA race point standings.  These sorts of bragging rights don’t come often to retired guys who thought he was getting a pet.

At four and a half years old, Tristan still has a couple of more good racing years.  Then he and I will just have to find other interests to keep us active, young and healthy.

The whippet breed is a member of the hound family, and countless owners agree that the whippet is one of the most beautiful and graceful dog breeds. Whether at rest or running full throttle, the aerodynamic whippet is built for speed. Its short coat requires minimum grooming, and the whippet is gentle, kind, affectionate, and quiet, making this breed an ideal family pet and companion…even if you have fun with weekend racing. Here are 7 characteristics of the whippet you may or may not have known:

1.) WHIPPET ORIGINS – Many have differing opinions of the origin of the whippet breed. In the mid 19th century in the industrialized areas of Northern England, there existed a canine breed resembling a smaller greyhound, demonstrating traces of Italian greyhound or terrier. It is believed that the breed we are familiar with today is a result of many crosses between greyhounds (selected for speed and strength) and certain terriers (selected for courage & game hunting abilities).

2.) BREED DEVELOPMENT – Whippets originally bred for racing and hunting had a higher degree of terrier blood, giving them added strength and tenacity, while those whippets kept strictly as pets or for visual appearance showed more Italian greyhound influence, used to give greater refinement and reduce size. Because of the numerous cross breeding practices over time, this explains why the breed demonstrates a sturdy hound breed with few hereditary issues.

3.) WHIPPET RACING – In the smaller towns of Northern England, whippets were raced through the narrow streets and in fields and meadows on weekends, giving owners great pride in their racing ability. Over time, the breed received the name “poor man’s race horse.” Such increasing popularity of the whippet created a decline in the use of the breed for hunting, and a greater focus on racing. Whippets were known as “straight racers” because they raced in straight alleyways and in between rows of houses.

4.) PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS – Weighing on average from 27-31lbs. (12.5-14kg), the average whippet is a balanced combination of strength and muscular power, also coupled with grace and elegance. Whippets have relatively thin skin and get cold easily, which is why they don’t like to get wet.  Whippets tend to carry their tails between their legs (except when walking or playing) because the curve of the tail follows their natural curved spine. Despite their fragile appearance, whippets are surprisingly strong, not typically prone to illness, and are not typically susceptible to hip issues.

5.) WHIPPETS AS PETS – As domestic pets, whippets are clean, and can be easily housebroken and trained. Whippets are remarkable watchdogs and surprisingly rarely bark, which is important with neighbors close by or little children in the home. Whippets are basically indoor dogs and require nothing more than a warm blanket or bed to curl up.

6.) MATERNITY – The female whippet is usually an excellent mother, taking great care in protecting her litter. They have been known to birth up to 10 pups, although the average litter is around 5 or 6 pups. The puppies look much like other pups when born but begin to really look like a whippet around 6 weeks.

7.) WHIPPETS IN THE UNITED STATES – Prior to 1900, British-born New England residents introduced to the United States. Since its recognition by the American Kennel Club in the early 1930′s, the whippet has gradually increased in popularity.